Tsunami means “harbor wave” in Japanese, but they differ from other waves that are generated by the wind or solar system. Tsunami waves move the entire depth of the ocean, down to the floor, which is ...
Spencer Rogers is a coastal specialist with N.C. Sea Grant and co-author of “The Dune Book.” Here he explains the basics of ocean waves. Questions and answers have been edited. Q. Where do ocean waves ...
It’s something surfers, sailors, and coastal walkers have quietly noticed for centuries: ocean waves often seem to come in a repeating pattern, with every seventh wave standing out as bigger, stronger ...